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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.